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The Queen City |
Last week I moved to Charlotte. I drove down to the
southeasternmost corner of Ohio, crossed into West Virginia and wended through
the mountains for two hours. The drive was beautiful, and North Carolina is
beautiful, and Charlotte is beautiful. Boulevards thick with trees and hedges
dripping with flowers line every man-made structure, and a rich Carolingian
friendliness overlays every interaction. I’ve already met three of my next-door
neighbors (one dropped everything to help me carry a desk in), and even the
clerks at the stores and the cashiers at the coffee shops engage me in breezy
conversation.
Most of my time has been spent checking out IKEA, the
library, Trader Joe’s and Harris Teeter’s and Book Buyers, and generally
getting my bearings around town. Also, in putting together my apartment, which
is absolutely beautiful—it has a fireplace, mirpeset with a view, and walk-in
closet.
I spent Shabbat at the house owned by the rabbinic family
who run the Charlotte Torah Center. It’s only a half hour walk from my
apartment, but they invited me, and this way I didn’t have to walk home from
dinner late at night down the long, dark winding root-filled dirt road that leads down to the main road. There were three other guests staying, young “regulars”
who spend nearly every Shabbat there. And I can see why. In any city that’s a
Jewish outpost, you expect the rabbinic family to be warm, hospitable, etc,
else why would they decide to be chalutzim like that? But this family is also
bursting with personality. They have two of their boys at home for the summer,
and the daughter will be back this week. The Shabbat table was uproarious and
we jumped from controversial topic to hilarious questioning to meaningful
discussion. Friday night, the older son and the rabbi and I had a long debate
about whether Rabbi Akiva was right to leave his wife Rachel for 24 years of
study, even if he did turn out to be one of the greatest teachers of all time.
We ended it pleased all around, each feeling like we’d gotten to see something
in a new way.
Shabbat morning they ran a learner’s service at
Glieberman’s, the kosher restaurant and store in town. It was about an hour of exposition
on brachot and the parshah to ten minutes of tefillah, and I’m not sure whether
I may not tiptoe by Chabad for shacharit instead some shabbatot. The thing is,
I love this family, so I’ll have to see.
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About a twentieth of the JCC |
After the class, the rabbi took me on a tour of the JCC.
Now, I come from Columbus Ohio, and am
used to enormous, gorgeous Jewish community structures donated by generous benefactors.
But this is without a doubt the most incredibly lavish JCC I’ve ever seen. The
Levines, owners of the Family Dollar chain, built it (as well as the rest of
Charlotte, some joke). It’s not a building, it’s a campus, with flower-lined
drive leading to the sports center, gym upon gym and pools with slides and then
the school connected by a hall, with teen lounges and senior lounges and
unspecified lounges, newspaper office, meeting rooms and auditoriums and social
halls. The kind of thriving Jewish life implied by this is a bit misleading,
but there’s always hope—if you build it, they will come.
Off to my first day of FEW—first eight weeks—the professional
development before classes start. Today is entirely logistical. Another round
of fingerprinting, here I come!